Epic Workbench Part 1

A few months back, we moved out of our apartment and into a rental house. Among the many great things about the new place was the two-car garage. With only one car, what’s a suddenly space-rich maker to do? Set up a workbench, of course.

Initially, I was planning to design a bench out of plywood that would tab-and-slot-and-screw together. I got as far as initial sketches in OpenSCAD before I decided it was just going to be too much work to design the bench I’d want to have. My search for alternatives took me here, which looked awesome, but was far too expensive. Luckily, that page lead me here, which introduced me to the world of galvanized steel fence posts.

Finally, the sweet spot: a linear construction material that’s strong, rugged, locally available, and best of all, cheap! Even the fittings (1, 2) are very affordable. (Unlike, say, galvanized steel threaded pipe, which can beggar you in a single hardware store trip.)

I settled on 1 3/8″ fence posts as my material of choice then got to designing. Feature-wise, I’m looking for a large worktop, with ample storage above and below, and lots of vertical space for pegboard, which will end up being tool storage. Add to that a securely-anchored bench vise, permanent power strips, and some bright lighting, and you’ve got my perfect “mostly electronics, sometimes random mechanical” workspace.

My usual process with 3D design projects these days is to buy samples of the components I’ll be using so that I can take measurements and make reasonable estimations for how things will turn out. In this case, I bought a single 10-foot length of pipe, one tee fitting, and one elbow fitting.

While I was at the hardware store, I bought some metal-cutting reciprocating saw blades so that I could actually cut the pipe I’d bought. I’d really rather have used a tube cutter, but the one I already own is 1/2″ too small, and a pack of blades is about 1/3 the cost of an appropriately-sized tube cutter from Amazon. I was pleasantly surprised by how quickly those blades chopped up the pipe: perhaps 45 seconds per cut, a totally reasonable amount of time for the number of cuts I had to make.

Over the next week or so I spent my daily commute time designing the workbench in OpenSCAD. Here’s a render of what I came up with:

workbench_render

Notable features:

  • Everything is laid out around unbroken vertical tubes that run up the back, making up the legs and the rear supports of the top shelf. I figured this would lead to the strongest overall design.
  • The fittings are necessarily taller than the pipes themselves, and since there are so few of them (at different heights, even!) it’s necessary to make a custom spacer/clamp component in order to make a level worktop. No worries, though, as I can easily just CNC all the spacers and clamps I need. Also, once I have the spacer/clamp thing nailed down, I can easily use copies of that part to make mounting brackets for all the pegboards.
  • I found this great calculator called The Sagulator that helps you compute how much a surface of varying thickness will bow given how it’s supported, etc. This was really helpful in estimating eventual performance and influencing part placement.
  • All the tee fittings have very convenient screw holes stamped into them for securing the “cross” part to the pipe. I’m planning to put screws in all of these to make the frame sturdier and easier to re-assemble if I ever have to take it apart. (For example, to move to a new house.)
  • The worktop and shelves will still be CNC-cut, but mostly just because I want some rounded corners and “eyeballed” cuts stress me out. (What are the chances I would be able to maneuver a 7’x2.5′ piece of plywood on a bandsaw, anyways?) One major advantage of this approach is that I’ll be able to drill very precise pilot holes for all the spacer/clamp assemblies, making it much easier to assemble when all the parts are cut out.
  • I’d like to make use of adjustable feet so that I can precisely level the whole workbench, but I haven’t yet figured out how to adapt commercially-available leveling feet to the ends of my pipes. I think I’ll end up CNCing some inserts that I can pound in and then thread in the leveling feet.

As of now, I think the design is basically finalized. I bought all the pipe and fittings I need and I’m ready to start fabricating. Stay tuned for updates on actual progress!

Creating animated GIFs from OpenSCAD

animated

I do almost all my physical designs in OpenSCAD, and sometimes I want to post an image of my models. Since these are 3D models we’re talking about, a static image is kinda insufficient, but an animated GIF can do the job nicely.

OpenSCAD has an animation feature which allows you to create models that can mutate relative to time. While it’s primitive, it lets you slap a time-based rotate around your top-level object to get a nice 360 spin view. Then, when you select Animate from the View menu, the display will animate.

To go from the animated view in OpenSCAD to an animated GIF, check the “Dump Images” checkbox in the animation controls. This will cause each frame to be written out to a PNG file in the same directory as the .scad file. I like to check the box and then wait for the animation to repeat a little more than once to be sure that all the images have been dumped.

Once all the images are on disk, converting them into an animated GIF is surprisingly simple if you have ImageMagick’s convert utility. Here’s the command I use to convert a bunch of frames into an animated GIF:

The only real gotcha here is the “-set delay” option, which has a cryptic syntax: NxM means “N units of 1 second divided by M”. Thus, “1×24″ means 1/24 of a second. I’ve had the most success setting the frame delay this way, but there are probably other ways to do it.

Designing a capacitive touch wheel in OpenSCAD and EAGLE

I’m a big fan of DIY capacitive touch sensors. Without any custom parts or special fabrication techniques (beyond regular PCB creation), you can create really impressive interfaces. I first used this on the Question Block Lamp (Getting ready to ship! Order yours now!), and ever since I’ve been looking for great places to apply the technique.

Recently, I decided that one of my projects would really benefit from the addition of a capacitive touch wheel. I didn’t want to re-invent the wheel, so to speak, so I started Googling for designs.

The design

The page for the Arduino CapSense library sent me looking for the Quantum Scrollwheel sensor datasheet, which contains a handy schematic for a scroll wheel. wheel_schematic So how’s this thing supposed to work? The wheel is composed of three separate, identical electrodes that are tessellated together to form a ring. Each electrode is interleaved with its neighbors such that as you move away from the center of one electrode, the current electrode exposes less and less surface area while the next one exposes more and more. This means that if you measure the capacitance values of all three electrodes in succession, you should see approximately complimentary values on two of them, and an “untouched” value on the third. This should be sufficient information to figure out the orientation of the touch.

Ok, so how do we draw this?

The schematic for this wheel design is straight-forward enough, but this is far from an easy shape to draw. As I highlighted in a previous post, EAGLE really isn’t going to help you draw something like this, so you need to turn to another program to do it and then import the results. My tool of choice is OpenSCAD, so I got to work on a script to generate this shape.

Since all the electrodes are identical, we really only have to draw one and then rotate some copies around to complete the tessellation. Only, this shape is a bit unique – the curved triangular sections don’t lend themselves to being described with simple OpenSCAD primitives.

The first approach I considered was to think of each curved triangle is as a regular 2D triangle, only rendered incrementally along an arc. Polar coordinates would make this especially easy to describe. While this feels like it would be an elegant way to express these sections, OpenSCAD isn’t friendly to this approach. You can define arbitrary polygons, but you can’t add points to a polygon with any sort of native loop. In the past, when I had no other choice, I’ve written a Ruby script to generate the point list manually and then pasted them into my OpenSCAD script. This is clunky and involved, so I try to avoid it if at all possible.

However, I came up with another way to express this shape that is more amenable to being generated directly in OpenSCAD. It’s a technique I found on the OpenSCAD mailing list that the creator referred to as “chain hull”. A chain hull of a list of primitives is the union of the convex hulls of neighboring pairs of said primitives. Did you follow that? This page has a good visual example of the operation in action. I think chain hulling is a brilliant use of the primitive functions available in OpenSCAD and allows for complex shapes to be described very concisely.

To build our curved triangle sections with a chain hull, I laid out an arc of very thin squares ranging from the minimum width to the maximum width in a linear fashion. The chain hull magic takes each pair of squares, hulls them, and then unions all the results. Here’s the code that generates the shape:

And here’s a view of the intermediate shapes and the resulting chain hull:

hull_illustration

The base shapes, and the chain hull that gets drawn around them.

With a module built to create these curved triangles, the rest of the script is glue code to put the triangles in the right places. I wrote one module to generate the concentric/alternating triangles for an entire electrode, and then another module to generate the whole scroll wheel by rotating three electrodes into their proper positions. The final result comes out looking pretty good:

scroll_wheel

One gotcha I figured out in the course of this project is that EAGLE really doesn’t like to have zero-width lines, even if they’re just describing the outline of a polygon. To account for this, I drew the wheel sections a tiny bit smaller to account for the line width I’d use in EAGLE. This is not unlike accounting for the kerf on a laser cutter, so if you’ve done that before you’ll be familiar.

Getting it into EAGLE

The next step is getting it out of OpenSCAD and into EAGLE. I wrote about using OpenSCAD shapes as board outlines in another post, but this case is a little different. Board outlines can just be simple wires, but polygons need to be closed shapes. The DXFs that come out of OpenSCAD are just collections of segments. I needed a way to convert these segment lists into ordered lists of points that they could be entered with the POLYGON command. So, of course, I wrote a Ruby script to do it.

The operation for converting a set of segments into a ordered list of points is pretty easy. The trick is to think of the list of segments as edges in a graph, and then the objective becomes traversing the graph and outputting a list of connected components. To do this, first I read all the segments into memory, then put them into a map indexed by their start point. Then I pick an arbitrary segment, write its two points to a list, and then use the second point to do a map lookup for the next segment that matches it. This process then repeats with the second point of each segment until we’re back to the start point. This process nets a list of lists of points, each list being a closed polygon. Once all the segments appear in a polygon, we’re done, and from there it’s easy to generate a set of EAGLE commands and write them into a .scr file.

Before I run this generated script from the EAGLE command prompt, I do one hand editing pass to name the polygons so that they are connected to the proper signals in the schematic. With that done, I set the my desired line width to match what I used in the OpenSCAD script, and then load the polygons into EAGLE by running the command “script poly” where poly is the name of the .scr file created in the last step.

When EAGLE renders the polygons, they’ll start out empty with dotted borders. To get them filled in, you need to route connections to them and then run the RATSNEST command. If you’re planning to use the autorouter, a good practice at this point is to use the restrict and keepout layers to defend these polygons. If you cover the electrodes with a polygon in tRestrict or bRestrict layer (depending on whether your electrode is on the top or bottom), then the autorouter will leave it alone when routing other traces. Just make sure to hand-route a connection point through the protective layer, and then the autorouter will be able to take it from there. (tRestrict/bRestrict are just hints to the autorouter and will not trigger design rule warnings. Pretty handy!)

touch_wheel_on_board

The whole bottom of the board, featuring the the scroll wheel!

Next steps

I just ordered a batch of boards using the scroll wheel described in this post, so when they arrive, I will populate one and get to work on creating a library for easily reading out a position. Stay tuned for a future post!

Simple constant current LED driver

Here’s a simple circuit for driving LEDs at constant current. I like this one because it can be built with a variety of different components based on what you have on hand. I built my version with two 2N2222A transistors and a sense resistor from my resistor kit.

constant_current_driver

How does it work?

A small current on the CONTROL line causes the DRIVE transistor to switch on and sink through the SENSE resistor. The FEEDBACK transistor only operates when the voltage at the SENSE resistor is greater than its VBE, or turn-on voltage. When it turns on, it draws some current away from the base of the DRIVE transistor, reducing its gain and causing it to drop more voltage. This negative feedback will cause the whole system to equilibrate such that the SENSE resistor is seeing exactly the FEEDBACK transistor’s VBE. 

Why is this better than a ballast resistor?

You can drive a variety of LEDs with different forward voltages without worrying about changing any of the components (provided that you are comfortable using the same current). The DRIVE transistor will just drop more or less volts as necessary.

Also, if you’re trying to drive some high-current LEDs, you’re more likely to have common transistors that can handle the power dissipation than you are to have high wattage resistors. This makes prototyping and experimentation easier.

Finally, depending on your LEDs and your power supply, you could end up using fewer components by driving multiple LEDs in a string, rather than driving each LED separately.

Sizing components and calculating current and power

LEDs: You can use as many LEDs as you’d like provided that their combined forward voltage is less than the supply voltage minus VBE.

Power supply: Your input voltage needs to be at least the sum of the forward voltages of your LED string plus the minimum drop across the DRIVE transistor plus the VBE of your FEEDBACK transistor. Otherwise there won’t be enough voltage to turn on the LEDs.

Transistors: Anything NPN (or N-channel, if you’re using MOSFETs) you have handy has the potential to work. The most important thing to think about is how much voltage you’re expecting it to drop for you and what that means for power dissipation. This transistor will be acting in its linear region, so any voltage it doesn’t pass on from collector to emitter will turn into heat! For instance, let’s use an example of a 12V power supply and two white LEDs with a 3.2V forward voltage. The drive transistor will have to drop 12 V – (2 * 3.2 V + 0.6 V) = 5 V. If your target current is, say, 200 mA, then the transistor will be dissipating 5 V * 0.2 A = 1 watt of power. For some transistors this is no problem, but for others that’s a death sentence. Read your datasheet!

Sense resistor: This resistor sets the amount of current you want to pass through the LEDs. You can compute its value by taking the VBE of your FEEDBACK transistor and dividing by desired current. For instance, if you’re using a 2n2222A transistor with a VBE of 0.6 V, and you want to sink 200 mA of current, you would need a 3 ohm resistor. Power dissipation is straight forward, since you know the voltage and the current. Using our existing example, a 3 ohm sense resistor would see 0.6 V * 0.2 A = 0.12 watts. That’s small enough that you can use 1/4 watt resistors from a part kit with little worry.

Over-driving LEDs for brightness

Most of the time when I’m driving an LED, I do it with a simple ballast resistor, and that’s all there is to it. Lately, however, I’ve been working on a few LED matrix projects, and while it’s certainly possible to use the same simple resistor approach, this leads to a very dim display. (Since any given LED’s duty cycle is 1/N max, they appear much dimmer than they normally would.) 

The good news is that there’s a straightforward solution to this problem. LEDs have a rated forward current, but they also have a rated peak current, specified at a given pulse width and duty cycle. For instance, these red LEDs are rated for 30mA forward current and 185mA peak in 0.1 ms pulses at 10% duty cycle. Why is this stat useful? As long as you stick to the pulse width and duty cycle parameters, you can intermittently drive an LED at an excess current and get a brighter light without burning it out. 

There is a risk in using this setup, though. If for some reason your PWM signal were to lock up in the “high” state, then the pulse width limitations would be exceeded and you’ll probably fry the LED in an instant. This means you need to be especially cautious during development – crashing your microcontroller at the wrong time can be costly!

While the theory of this is straight-forward, I wanted to test how it actually looks in practice before I integrated it into my design. If it was only moderately brighter, I didn’t want to spend the energy (and money) on adding an array of transistors to my board.

breadboard_setup

My test setup.

I decided to throw together a test setup that would allow me to compare brightness of an LED at its full-on steady current, one PWM’d with a ballast resistor to keep it at its steady current, and one at peak current and PWM’d. This sets up a comparison between the maximum brightness, the brightness of the same LED in a naively driven matrix, and finally the same LED over-driven.

The LEDs I’m using here are surface mount in a 1206 package. Saying that they are very small is an understatement. They are by no means breadboard compatible, so the first step was creating a simple breakout board.

I used a piece of pre-drilled perfboard with a solid copper pour on one side to make the breakout. I marked off a few columns of 6 holes each so that it would span the IC gutter on a breadboard, then cut the piece out with a pair of aircraft snips. Next, I used a utility knife and a straightedge to score the copper and separate the columns from each other, and then did one horizontal stroke to make a grid of 1×3 hole pads.

breakout_board_detail

Detail of the LED breakout board

Next, I soldered two rows of 0.1″ header to the top and bottom of the board for mating with the breadboard. Then, I hand-soldered 6 LEDs, 3 red and 3 green, onto the board. (Judicious use of continuity tester and solder sucker not optional.) Finally, I used a file to chop one corner as an orientation indicator and then cleaned up the rough edges.

To prove that everything was working, I started out by connecting the steady current resistor and probed all the LEDs. Everything lit up fine. With the baseline established, the next step was to set up the PWM signal. According to this page, the Arduino’s built-in analogWrite() PWM runs at about 500Hz, which is too slow for the target pulse width. Since I didn’t need crazy precision or performance here, I decided to quickly write up an Arduino sketch that toggled the output pin manually and used delayMicros() to set the interval. The sketch turned out to be pretty simple:

To verify that this was giving the output I expected, I hooked up the output pin to my handy DSO Nano. On the first try I ended up with a 996 Hz frequency and good pulse width. The error in the frequency is probably due to the fact that there’s overhead to toggling pins and calling delayMicros(). I suspect I could dial it into precisely 1000 Hz by guess and test on the delay durations, but it’s not that important at this point. In the real production scenario, I’ll be using a hardware timer and it’ll be worth getting it exactly right.

Connecting the PWM output to the second LED was straight forward, though I did add a NPN transistor in between the output pin and the LED so that it could drive all the PWM inputs without any worries about current draw.

The over-driven LED was the most complicated to set up. I plugged the peak current number into an LED resistor calculator, and it told me I needed a 12 ohm, 2 watt resistor. Yikes! I certainly don’t have anything like that on hand. Rather than putting a whole ton of resistors in parallel, I wired up a simple constant current LED driver circuit using some common transistors and resistors. I’ll leave the discussion of that driver circuit for another time, but the cool thing about it is that it allows the transistors to do all the heavy wattage dissipation while the resistors see a tiny load. 

With everything wired up, I powered it on to assess the results:

Closeup of the final brightness test. Hooray for DSLR cameras!

Closeup of the final brightness test. Hooray for DSLR cameras!

I would say that the PWM-only LED is substantially dimmer, and the overdriven LED is almost but not quite as bright as the steady-on LED. This turned out to be exactly the sort of obvious difference I was looking for. It seems well worth adding the additional circuitry to get a much brighter display.

Cellular Chronometer Part 2: The PCB

I’m designing an LED matrix clock that plays Conway’s Game of Life to evolve a representation of the current time. See the whole series of blog posts about the project here.

At the heart of this project is the PCB. I set out to push my limits a bit, and I certainly succeeded at that. This is by far the most complex board I’ve ever worked on, owing mostly the sheer number of components (132 LEDs, 14 resistors, 4 capacitors, a crystal, a microcontroller, and a linear regulator) crammed in such a small space (25 x 100 mm).

The basic layout is that the front of the board is the LED matrix, while the back hosts all the support circuitry. Let’s look at each of those in turn.

The matrix

top

Laying out a grid of LEDs should be easy, right? Well, not that easy. Immediately after I got done drawing the schematic for the matrix, I discovered that the LEDs I selected simply weren’t going to fit in the available space. Faced with the prospect of 132 separate REPLACE commands, I quickly developed the beginnings of what I’m now considering my EAGLE secret weapon: what I’m calling external scripting. I wrote a simple Ruby script that generated all the names of the LEDs, and then piped that through some bash magic to compose the commands I needed. Once I pasted the results into the EAGLE command bar, boom, all LEDs replaced in one fell swoop.

Not an easy schematic to draw. Yes, I did it by hand.

Not an easy schematic to draw. Yes, I did it by hand.

This technique worked so well that I knew I’d take advantage of it again. I didn’t have to wait long. As soon as I switched from the schematic to the board, I found myself needing to actually position the LEDs. I tried making the grid match my desired spacing, but that was proving too tricky, especially when combined with having to position all the LEDs in a precise order. Scripting to the rescue!

A word on the LED layout scheme

A quick aside: at this point in the project, I had to decide on a layout scheme for the LEDs that both made it easy to route the board as well as write code to map the LEDs into a 2D grid. Charlieplex LEDs are addressed by (high pin, low pin) pairs, but I’ll need to interact with them from a more (x, y) perspective. This would not be something easy to change later, as its encoded in the hardware itself.

I elected to go with a strategy that put high/low pairs and their inverse next to each other, thinking that this would limit the number of far-flung connections needed. These pairs are laid out in a sort of round-robin fashion so that they’re all exercised. The result ends up looking like this:

charlie_scheme_illustration

Anyways. Using the earlier technique, I wrote another Ruby script that generated EAGLE commands to position all the LEDs according to this scheme. The scripting here was really crucial, because I had to try out multiple tweaks before I got everything just right, and without a script, I would have been committing to several hundred clicks per experiment!

Supporting electronics

board_bottom

The ATMEGA is the centerpiece of the back of the board. Nearby is the 16MHz crystal, and to either side are the momentary switches that allow the setting of the time. The top edge of the board is the bank of current-limiting resistors needed to drive the LEDs. Finally, on the edges of the board, there’s a 6-pin ICSP programming header and your standard LM317 linear regulator circuit set up to output 5V.

A note on the power supply. I don’t think this thing is going to be a power hog, and I’d ultimately like it to be pretty compact and beautiful, so I’m planning to just stick a 9V battery in there and call it a day. This is sorta phoning it in, but since the ICSP header breaks out the 5V bus, I figure I can always solder in a USB cable and power it from a wall wart if I have to.

Putting it together

I sent the Gerber files off to Seeed Studio’s FusionPCB service for production. About a month later, the boards turned up, and I couldn’t wait to assemble them.

2013-09-11 18.55.49

When reading about other folks’ LED matrix projects online, a common complaint was that it was difficult to get all the SMD LEDs aligned properly without some sort of jig. I didn’t want to mess around with creating a special fab tool, so instead I made the conscious choice to go with solder paste and hot air reflow. The idea was that I’d get the automatic alignment effect that solder paste + hot air exhibits.

Here, I made a miscalculation. Instead of making a solder paste stencil and applying it with a putty knife (which I’ve done before!), I decided to just dispense the paste directly from the syringe. This was a disaster. The paste I have has gotten kind of old, making it less apt to flow out the tiny syringe tips I have. Plus, I somehow lost the plunger that came with the paste, and was stuck using a Sharpie marker as a makeshift plunger. Not what I would call ergonomic. Still, this might have been OK for a few tens of pads… but I was applying paste to both sides of 125 LEDs! It took well over an hour, and by the end, I was in a lot of pain and didn’t have the patience to do it correctly. Consequently, a lot of the later LEDs got a huge glop of paste that sometimes bridged their pads and was just generally poorly done.

Populating the board was painstaking, but nowhere near as difficult as the pasting. When it was done, I fired up my trusty heat gun to reflow the board. About 85% of the LEDs did exactly what I was hoping for and sucked themselves right into place, but the rest pulled away from their pads, tombstoned, or clearly bridged under. I ended up spending another hour or so just going through and doing rework on the bad LEDs.

matrix_populated

With the matrix side behind me, I turned my attention to the back of the board. At this point I was pretty done with solder paste, so I switched over to the iron. First up was the microcontroller. I used the “flow and wick” technique, which worked like a charm – after I refreshed my memory from this excellent SparkFun tutorial. (Heres a better video that illustrates the technique more closely.) The rest of the components were no problem – I just tinned the pads, positioned the components with tweezers, and then reflowed the pads until the pieces stuck. The one exception here was the crystal, which doesn’t have any exposed leads. For this guy, I just tinned the pads, then positioned the crystal and hit it with the hot air gun. I was relieved when I saw the crystal shift and adjust itself into place. Phew.

back_populated

Turning it on

With the board fully populated, it was time to turn it on. It’s always scary to do the first power on test of a new project, particularly one where it’s impossible to do incremental tests. I flashed a spare Arduino with with ArduinoISP sketch, hooked it up to the programming header, and proceeded to burn a bootloader. Astoundingly, it worked the first time!

Next, it was time to test the matrix itself. I had already developed a Charlieplex matrix driver during my minimal prototyping stage, but the new board was really different and needed a new driver. But before I dove into porting the complex logic onto the new board, I wrote a trivial sketch that just exercised all the LEDs in sequence by manually toggling the pin pairs according to the scheme described above.

Guess what? It didn’t work. At least, not all of it. There were numerous spots in the matrix where LEDs were skipped, and a few spots where instead of a single LED lighting, multiple LEDs would glow dimly. It turns out there were a few problems here. The first was that my test sketch accidentally referenced the same pin twice, making it do a weird rewind-stutter thing during the test sweep. That one took an embarrassingly long time to find. With that software error out of the way, I proceeded from one LED to the next, debugging each misbehaving one. A few of the LEDs were in backwards – a population error. Some just seemed to be busted, and worked after replacing with a spare. Whether they came off the reel that way or were damaged during reflow, who knows.

By the end of the night, I was done debugging and all the LEDs worked as expected. Hooray! No disastrous issues! Now, I could finally start on the actual production sketch.

Using an OpenSCAD shape as the board outline in EAGLE

I’ve been working on a Charlieplexed LED analog clock. The finished product will be an artfully routed PCB in a clear acrylic enclosure. Since the PCB will be the centerpiece, I want it to be pretty cool looking, including an interesting outline. The design I’m going for pictured below. It’s the union of four different rotations of the convex hull of a central circle and a smaller outer circle. Simple, right?

scad_version

While EAGLE is a pretty capable CAD package, it stops short of making it easy to lay out complex shapes like this one. On the other hand, OpenSCAD is designed with exactly this use case in mind. (Check out how easy it was to make the shape above.) So we just have to find a way to get from OpenSCAD into EAGLE. Should be simple!

OpenSCAD supports exporting 2D shapes to the DXF format. Some initial Googling made it seem like EAGLE could import DXFs, but after some clicking I found myself on a plugin page that was in German and had a link to a .EXE file. (I’m on a Mac.) Not exactly what I’m looking for.

Lacking an out of the box solution, I did what any self-respecting hacker would do, and wrote a script. DXF files are text, which is helpful, though they are in an impressively goofy format. A little searching got me to the format specification, which explained how to read the sets of points that formed line segments. With the points in hand, I had my script output a set of EAGLE WIRE commands. After switching into the “dimension” layer, I pasted the WIRE commands into the command bar. Voila, I’ve got my outline!

eagle

While it works, this script is pretty hacky. It makes a bunch of assumptions about the structure of the file that might not hold in DXFs generated by programs other than OpenSCAD. But given the amount of time invested, I’m pretty comfortable with the results!